Thrustmaster control panel doesnt open3/13/2024 Adjusting any stetting that would change the contact patch of the front tyres seems to skew the ffb, caster and camber at minimum seems to give more direct feel for self aligning torque, tyre pressures at minimum also helps too but it’s still far from perfect So something must just be fudged with the way they are calculating the steering loads. one thongs for sure, more testing is needed…Įdit: caster appears correct, turning the wheel to the left adds positive camber to the left wheel and negative camber to the right wheel. I’m going to try find a pc Sim that I can setup backwards caster and see what effect it has on the ffb. If it is backwards it could explain why the wheel doesn’t want to self align properly. I’m starting to convince myself that its backwards, running medium to high angle caster the wheel hardly wants to self align, but putting it as low as is goes improves the self alignment. The more I tinker with the tuning of the car to help get the ffb to feel ‘better’ the more I’m beginning to think something is fudged in the physics department, namely the caster angle. It’s a horrendous mess from a physics perspective, I simply don’t understand how a AAA studio like turn 10 can’t get it right. If you turn the vibratuon off, Then the base of the ffb is wrong too, it doesn’t follow the aligning torque of the front wheels, it’s doesn’t drop off in force as you reach the peak turning slip angle of the front tyres (in fact it doesn’t drop off until you are compleatly out of control, well past even extreme understeer) It’s compleatly unrealistic and adds no authenticity to it at all. Just played with the default settings for the wheel the other day and my god was it terrible, the vibration feature is compleatly unrealistic, the wheel shakes violently when slipping the rear wheels? What the hell is that! Not only that but it’s the exact same vibration for every circumstance, whether it’s oversteer, understeer, rumble strip, grass, sand it’s all exactly the same, just a constant violent vibration. There are huge physics inaccuracies in the ffb model and I for one cannot logically understand the reasoning for it, it should be a far more pleasant experience than what it is. ^ well im glad you have found something that works for you, unfortunately in the end I just get frustrated with it every time I play. So if you start Horizon 2 directly after Forza Motorsport 6 go to Control-Settings and change the Degree of Rotation back again. Be aware that Forza Horizon 2 will take over DOR Settings from Forza Motorsport 6 as it overrides the Wheelbase-Setting. I’ve now settled to 270 Degrees (lowest), no matter the car, in Forza 6 as it translates 1:1. It works fine for me since setting Auto-Center to 0% in the Thrustmaster Control-Panel. If you’re experiencing the “left-pull-bug” make sure to turn Vibration Off completely. Lower the Rotation-Angle down to 540 for GT-Cars and even lower between 270 and 360 for the Open-Wheel-Class like Formula 1 Cars. Ingame: Vibration On, All Deadzones 0/100, Vibration-Scale 60, FFB-Scale 65, Rotation 900. Forza 6 seems to have a Problem with the Auto-Center default setting (letting the Game center the Wheel). Set FFB from 75% (default) up to 100%, set Spring, Damper and Auto-Center to 0%. The Rotation-Angle should read 900 Degrees, leave it that way. In the Thrustmaster Control-Panel you also need to make a few adjustments, these will be saved directly to the wheel. I also updated my TX to the latest firmware V50.9b on the PC. On the Wheel: Sensivity 1 Flash (default), make sure to press both pedals three times to full extend on the dashboard, to calibrate them in advance. Feels pretty great now if you’re easy on the throttle though! I will do the Brakepedal-Mod soon, since i want to ged rid of ABS-Assist.
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